Bobs Astronomy

Rim to Rim

Sometimes referred to as R2R. What it means is hiking or running from one rim of the Grand Canyon to the other. Officially a little over 23 miles. The 23 miles is not the hard part. It is only one mile that is make it so difficult. That mile is the vertical component. No matter how you do it. You will have to hike a mile up to get out. Once you step off the rim, self-rescue mode is active. It is the only option.

I hiked this on September 25, 2023. Got started before daylight as solo. The temperature was 38F. It wasn’t long before I befriended two others make the group of 3. Then later it became 5. Starting before daylight brings on a surreal experience when nautical twilights starts, and the views of the canyon open up. Almost make one feel bad for all those folks that never get down into the Canyon. It is well worth the hike for this part alone. Daylight broke enough for us by the time we got the Redwall Bridge to turn off our headlamps. Now some 2400 feet below the rim. On past the pump station on Roaring Springs. Where all the potable water for Grand Canyon NP comes from. Both Rims. Past Cottonwood and into the “box”. The box is where you get down into the Vishnu Schist. Some 1.8 billion year old very hard rock. Almost a billion years of rock evolution is missing here. Sometimes referred to as the “Great Unconformity”. Phantom Ranch is in the box but near the river. Where we enjoyed cold lemonade. We spent about 3 hrs. at Phantom Ranch while some of the crew did some side trips. Then across the silver bridge that spans the “colored red” river. There is a rest house with emergency phone at this location. More important to us was the nice cool water in Pipe Creak where we dipped our shirts and cooled our feet. Here we said bye for now to the two that joined us over by the Redwall.

The Devil’s Corkscrew is next. This is where you will climb up out of the box. lots of switchbacks and is where a lot of folks get in trouble. I should mention it gets very hot in the box. Mid 90’s for us. Out of the Devil’s Corkscrew it gets a lot easier. Just stroll up besides Pipe Creek until our arrival at Havasupai Garden. Took about an hour there to cool our feet again in the creek and eat a snack. Just 4.5 miles from here. But it’s still almost a half mile of vertical left. The leisurely sloping trail quickly turns into steep switchbacks. The rest of Bright Angle trail is switchbacks to the top. This section of the trail to the top is where a lot of R2R and casual hikers sometimes do what is called a death march. A reference to expression on their faces. I like to call it the “ant” march because we look like ants to the folks up on the rim. For me I was back in familiar territory and was fully enjoying this hike. At 3mile Resthouse is another emergency phone. We ate more snacks here but only rested for a shorth while. By now it was sunset. An awesome sight from down in the Canyon. By the time we reached 1.5 mile resthouse we were using our headlamps again. From here there were only two more tunnels and one giant harry scorpion we needed to pass. At the top I was greeted by a lady anxiously waiting for her 70+ year old husband to climb out or the Canyon.

So, what hurts after a hike like this? My ears, they didn’t hurt.

At North Kaibab Trailhead
Nautical twilight is letting us glimpse into the canyon. This view is one of the most incredible sights from anywhere in the GC.
I thought it was cool to see the headlamps of the “ants” in front of us.
A stop for some photos.
A lot of trail left in front of us.
The RedWall Bridge.
There are a number of places where you will need to stay on the trail.
There were some small waterfalls along Bright Angle creek.
The waterfall with sunlight trying to get down into the canyon.
Looking back to the top
Another small waterfall
Just befor the box
Getting down into the box.
It is getting warm now and narrow.
The sign is the best caption.
Colorado River
Some reall old rock
At the Silver bridge looking at the Black bridge.
Look closely and you can spot some of the very oldest rock. Rwffweed to as basement or Genisis rock.
Looking at Pipe Creek.
Getting up out of the Box.
The rock here is less that 900 million years old.
Looks back at Devil’s Corkscrew
Sunset in the Canyon
An awsom view in person. That probably why this same view is the one on the R2R hats.
Out at BA trailhead. My hiking buddies and I celebrate.

Everyone should experience this. BUT, this hike is not for the faint of heart. I spent many months preparing. Hiked over 300 miles and did hikes with over 4000 feet of uphill (elevation). If you give it a go remember hiking below the rim is an option. Hiking out is not. Signs everywhere to reminding folks that below the rim is self-rescue. Looking into the canyon can be deceiving. Think of it in terms if you sliced off the highest peak east of the Mississippi, Mt Mitchell at the valley floor. Flipped it over into the Grand Canyon, it would not fill it. Ask yourself can I hike over Mt Mitchell?

This was a bucket list item for me. It should be on everyone’s bucket list. Upon finishing It was marked on my bucket list. A few days later I looked at my bucket list for what is next only to discover that instead of crossing R2R out, I just underlined the it.